MEANING AND GUIDE OF COLORS-GEMSTONES

Gemstones have carried meaning in cultures around the world since the earliest records of history. Each stone has its own colour and symbolism, but all of them share one thing: natural beauty.

People have collected and worn gems for more than 10,000 years. They were once seen as small pieces of heaven on earth, compared to specks of starlight or the tears of gods, and many still carry symbolic meaning today. This gemstone colour guide covers the most popular gemstones by colour, what each one means, and how to recognise it, whether you're looking for your birthstone, a statement piece or a meaningful gift.

What determines a gemstone's colour?

A gemstone's colour comes from its mineral composition. Trace minerals in the soil mean the same gemstone can look different depending on where it was mined. For example, rubies from Thailand, Sri Lanka and Myanmar (Burma) each show a slightly different red.

• Treatment: heating can deepen or completely change a stone's colour. This is how most blue topaz gets its blue.
• Alternatives: many coloured gems, such as spinel, are beautiful substitutes for more expensive stones.
• Pleochroism: some gems show different colours when you look at them from different angles.

What are the most popular gemstones by colour?

There are thousands of gemstones, but only a few are widely used in jewellery, and colour quality is what sets them apart. Here is a quick guide to the most popular ones.

Not sure which stone colours suit you? Our guide on how to match jewellery with your skin tone can help.

What does each gemstone mean?

Blue gemstone: Sapphire

• Meaning: Wisdom and loyalty
• Hardness (Mohs): 9
• Pleochroism: Yes (blue and purple)
• Calendar significance: September birthstone, Sagittarius, Wednesday stone

Sapphires come in almost every colour, but their brilliant blue is what made them famous, and the bluer the stone, the higher its value. Star sapphires, which show a star-like shine called asterism, are the rarest. Kashmir sapphires are exceptionally rare because the Himalayan mines have produced very little for almost a century. Their tiny inclusions give them a soft cornflower-blue glow.

Blue-green gemstone: Blue topaz

• Meaning: Calm and communication
• Hardness (Mohs): 8
• Pleochroism: Weak (blues)
• Calendar significance: December birthstone

Most blue topaz starts as colourless or pale topaz and gets its vivid blue from treatment. Swiss blue is the lightest shade and London blue the darkest, with blue-green tones in between. Any shade of blue topaz is an affordable alternative to more expensive blue gemstones.

Light blue gemstone: Aquamarine

• Meaning: Peace and relaxation
• Hardness (Mohs): 7.5–8
• Pleochroism: Yes (light blue and light green)
• Calendar significance: March birthstone

If sea foam could crystallise, it would look like aquamarine. It belongs to the same mineral family as emerald (beryl), but it is usually cleaner, with fewer inclusions. The clearer the stone, the more valuable it is.

Red gemstone: Ruby

• Meaning: Love, passion and power
• Hardness (Mohs): 9
• Pleochroism: Yes (yellowish red and deep red)
• Calendar significance: July birthstone, Tuesday stone

Ruby comes only in red, but every shade is different. Like sapphire, ruby is a form of corundum and can show asterism. The deeper the red, the higher the value. The rarest are pigeon's blood rubies: deep red with a hint of blue.

Green gemstone: Emerald

• Meaning: Vitality and energy
• Hardness (Mohs): 7.5–8
• Pleochroism: Yes (bluish green and yellowish green)
• Calendar significance: May birthstone, Friday stone

There's no such thing as a flawless emerald. Its inclusions give each stone personality and tell the story of how it formed. Even so, they should be fine rather than bubbly or deeply fractured. The richer and deeper the green, the more valuable the emerald.

Light green gemstone: Peridot

• Meaning: Creativity
• Hardness (Mohs): 6.5–7
• Pleochroism: Weak (greens)
• Calendar significance: August birthstone

The ancient Egyptians prized peridot as a stone of protection against evil. Bright, pure green peridots are the most valuable, while olive and brownish tones are worth less. Because peridot is transparent and very reflective, look out for the tiny black spots that can dull it.

Yellow gemstone: Citrine

• Meaning: Confidence and kindness
• Hardness (Mohs): 7
• Pleochroism: Weak (yellows)
• Calendar significance: November birthstone, Virgo (yellow) and Libra (orange)

Citrine can be yellow or orange, which is why it's linked to both Virgo and Libra. Its honey and sunlight colours give the wearer a warm glow. Whatever the shade, brightness matters most, so avoid brownish citrine.

Purple gemstone: Amethyst

• Meaning: Calm and love
• Hardness (Mohs): 7
• Pleochroism: Weak (reddish or greyish violet)
• Calendar significance: February birthstone, Pisces, Thursday stone

Amethyst has been linked with ancient religion, royalty and medicine. It's traditionally believed to bring emotional balance and help the wearer resist temptation. Deep, royal purple amethysts are the most valuable.

White gemstone: Pearl

• Meaning: Truth and purity
• Hardness (Mohs): 2.5–4.5
• Pleochroism: No
• Calendar significance: June birthstone, Monday stone

Natural pearls, formed without human help, are the rarest. They often have a slightly off-white tint and a less even shape. Almost all pearls sold today are cultured. Moonstone is another milky-white gem with a similar meaning.

Black gemstone: Onyx

• Meaning: Strength and self-confidence
• Hardness (Mohs): 6.5–7
• Pleochroism: No
• Calendar significance: Capricorn

Onyx is a banded variety of chalcedony, and black onyx is a classic choice for engraving. It's often carved into cameos or set in ornate designs, so much of its value comes from the setting and craftsmanship.

Multicolour gemstone: Opal

• Meaning: Magic and playfulness
• Hardness (Mohs): 5.5–6.5
• Pleochroism: No
• Calendar significance: October birthstone

Opal has no pleochroism but plenty of colour. It forms when water rich in silica seeps into cracks in rock and slowly hardens. Harlequin opal is the most colourful and rarest, followed by black opal. In general, the darker the body of the opal, the more valuable it is.

How do you choose a gemstone colour for your jewellery?

Choose a stone colour that matches your outfits and the meaning you want to carry. A few simple rules help:

• Match your wardrobe. Emerald greens and ruby reds suit festive and bridal outfits, while pearl and aquamarine tones work for everyday wear.
• Think about meaning. A birthstone or a stone with a special meaning makes a thoughtful gift.
• Know what you're buying. Real gemstones, plated pieces and artificial stones are very different in price. Read real gold vs gold-plated vs artificial jewellery before you shop.

Frequently asked questions